zanzibar

Second Billy Joel location unlocked!

After racing to the port in Dar es Salaam only to watch our ferry depart, we’d had our fill of logistical issues and it was only 7:30 am. Fortunately, we were able to board the next one and soon we were chopping up waves on the way to the island—I’ve never felt more motion-sick in my life.

Our stubborn walk from the port in Stonetown to the hostel meant constantly fending off taxi and bajaj offers, even after Gaby’s suitcase lost a wheel—making it bajaj-like itself (a three-wheeler).

The humidity on the island was haunting and the hunt for AC was exhausting. Our only relief was in the ocean. Or so we thought.

On our second day in Zanzibar, and more importantly Harsehaj’s birthday, we hit the Stonetown beach, swimming in the cool water, snapping away on Uredo’s many cameras, and basking in a moment of pure calm.

We’d been used to the typical tourist harassment in Tanzania by now, but that day it reached such a point that we had to leave the beach to avoid it. We came back at sunset for pictures, but the situation was quite the same—perhaps even worse because of how crowded it was.

On top of our personal discomfort, we all felt especially for the birthday girl. But at dinner that night, Harsehaj surprised us all by giving the day a solid 10 out of 10.

She said that if we rated every day based on things outside of our control, we’d never have a good day. Profound wisdom I assume she possesses now that she’s reached 19 years old.

That certainly set the tone for the last few days of the trip, and the last days we’d be spending with each other for a while.

We rallied that night to finally watch the new Percy Jackson series together as we’d been discussing since the start of the trip. The setup was less than ideal, only having one laptop with a VPN, weak Wi-Fi, no speaker, and a sweltering heat unjustified for nighttime. It was one of the best nights we spent together.

The next two days, we’d take off to enjoy the beaches on the north of the island, superior in every way. We sand-banked, snorkeled, and had trays of fresh fruit that I still dream about.

mr. chocolate & the night market

Our friend Randy has an uncanny ability to meet fascinating people everywhere where we go. His eager conversation skills have benefited us immensely—becoming friends with Ashley, a restaurant owner who moved from the US, got us a reliable guide and transportation to the north of the island and other valuable tips.

He also tracked down the quietly famous Mr. Chocolate at the Forodhani Garden night market in Stonetown. A while ago, Great Big Story did a feature on him and “Zanzibar” pizza—I can best describe it as a double-sided savory or sweet crêpe with local toppings that range wildly. Tomatoes, cheese, and onions, yeah—but also octopus, Snickers, and avocado.

farewells

As much as the logistics of traveling in a group of 10 can screw someone over, I think it’s a fairly small price to pay when it’s with the right people. It’s remarkable how everyone enriched the experience in so many different ways. Put together someone’s skill of conversation with another’s sense of direction, someone’s sense of humor with another’s practical medical knowledge, someone’s groundedness with another’s thirst for adventure and you get an unforgettable trip.

Ali, Anjali, Gaby, Harsehaj, Katarina, Kendall, Philip, Prince, Randy, and Uredo—missing you all. Until dinner with Prince’s dad in Chapel Hill this fall.

Still in Rabat, Morocco! Weekend trip with my host sister to Tangier and Chefchaouen this weekend, inshallah, so stay tuned.

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